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  Topic Review (Newest First)
05-17-2013 11:24 AM
freakdawg Sinking the carbs is merely adjusting the vacuum pressure so that they are equalized or matched. In multiple carb applications whether it be 2,3, or 4 one carb is fixed meaning it is not adjustable but the balance are adjustable and are synchronized to the the fixed carb. Thus matching the operating pressure they will be working at and supplying equal air fuel mixture to each cylinder.

It's a good idea to sync the carbs after any carb service has been performed as well as after valve adjustments.

Synchronizing is a fairly simple process but requires a method for gaging pressure to each carb. This can be a home brewed gaging device or a carb synchronizing tool like the one offered by Motionpro.

05-17-2013 08:09 AM
tadster00 because any time the valves are adjusted, it changes the pressure of the vaccuums in the carbs. If you do a valve adjustment and do not do a carb sync, you'll notice that your bike will putter at certain times, and just run out of the ordinary because the gas flow is uneven.

Here's an easy way to do it, and cheap: https://www.250r.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1693

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05-16-2013 09:05 PM
Originally Posted by tadster00 View Post
if you do a valve adjustment, then you need to do a carb sync literally right after.
Why? And how do I do it?

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05-15-2013 09:14 PM
tadster00 if you do a valve adjustment, then you need to do a carb sync literally right after.

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05-14-2013 05:34 PM
Ltizzle Carbs were rebuilt at the dealership so I'd assume they were synched... I did a valve adjustment today but I won't know if it worked until tomorrow... I know they were all extremely tight tho. It's probably nv been done, an the bike has 15k+ miles on it...

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05-14-2013 09:13 AM
freakdawg These bikes are sensitive when it comes to the carbs and fuel delivery. Old fuel can be the issue or clogged passages in the carbs are the likely and usual causes of poor idle and sluggish throttle response.

I've had to address this issue a few times here on the forum as well as on my own bikes.

Try some fresh fuel and see if it improves the idle and throttle response.

Did you sink the carbs after the rebuild?
05-12-2013 07:16 PM
Ltizzle Carbs can't b dirty if ii just had them and the tank cleaned/rebuilt can they? That's like impossible... I checked for vacuum leaks and found none. I put seafoam in the gas tank today and put some direct into the fuel line. I'm going to see if that helps any tomorrow...

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05-12-2013 04:35 AM
DaBlue1 Fluctuating idle speed can be a few things, vacuum leak, valves out of adjustment, dirty carbs/ bad gas. Start with the easy stuff first, make sure all your hoses and carb boots are tight, put in some Star Tron and fresh fuel. Use the choke only when starting the bike, if the idle increases try blipping the throttle. Ride the bike about 50 miles or so and see what happens.

If the idle continues to hang, or hunt, you'll need to get that corrected, as that's a symptom of another problem. You may have idle mixture or valve adjustment troubles. Poor idle is a give-away of valves being out of adjustment.

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05-11-2013 06:54 PM
If I apply any choke my bike dies?

If i apply any choke my bike dies? Also sometimes the idle will jump from 1300ish rpms to 5000+ rpms and stay, so I turn the idle back down and it eventually dies. (Sometimes after a few seconds, sometimes after 15+ minutes.) It use to do this once a day now its all the time. It died on me a few times coming to a stop with the clutch in down shifting and its always a bitch to start back up, especially since I cant even use the choke. Ugh. I just wanna ride. I just had the carbs rebuilt, and oil change, new air filter, new oil filter, and the gas tank was treated. Just to hopefully rule a few things out. Today for the first time I went to take it for a ride and it kept dieing trying to give it a little gas in 1st just to walk it down my driveway. It def seems to be getting worse. Plz help.

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