Ninja 250 FI Troubleshooting Guide - Kawasaki Ninja 250R Forum
 
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post #1 of 2 (permalink) Old 03-11-2014, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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Ninja 250 FI Troubleshooting Guide

Troubleshooting Guide

○Refer to the Fuel System chapter of the Service Manual for most of the DFI trouble shooting guide.
○This is not an exhaustive list, giving every possible cause for each problem listed. It is meant simply as a rough guide to assist the troubleshooting for some of the more common difficulties.


Engine Doesn’t Start, Starting Difficulty:
Starter motor not rotating:

Ignition and engine stop switch not ON
Starter lockout switch or neutral switch trouble
Starter motor trouble
Battery voltage low
Starter relay not contacting or operating
Starter button not contacting
Starter system wiring shorted or open
Ignition switch trouble
Engine stop switch trouble
Main 30 A or ignition fuse blown

Starter motor rotating but engine doesn’t turn over:

Vehicle-down sensor (DFI) coming off
Starter clutch trouble
Starter idle gear trouble

Engine won’t turn over:
Valve seizure
Valve lifter seizure
Cylinder, piston seizure
Crankshaft seizure
Connecting rod small end seizure
Connecting rod big end seizure
Transmission gear or bearing seizure
Camshaft seizure
Starter idle gear seizure

No fuel flow:
No fuel in tank
Fuel pump trouble
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Fuel filter clogged
Fuel line clogged

No spark; spark weak:
Vehicle-down sensor (DFI) coming off Ignition switch not ON
Engine stop switch turned OFF
Clutch lever not pulled in or gear not in neutral
Battery voltage low
Spark plug dirty, broken, or gap maladjusted
Spark plug incorrect
Stick coil shorted or not in good contact
Stick coil trouble
ECU trouble
Neutral, starter lockout, or sidestand switch trouble
Crankshaft sensor trouble
Ignition switch or engine stop switch shorted
Starter system wiring shorted or open
Main 30 A or ignition fuse blown

Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Bypass screw and/or idle adjusting screw maladjusted
Air passage clogged
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
Leak from oil filler cap, crankcase breather hose or air cleaner drain cap.

Compression Low:
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)
Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Valve spring broken or weak
No valve clearance
Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface)

Poor Running at Low Speed:
Spark weak:

Battery voltage low
Stick coil trouble
Stick coil shorted or not in good contact
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Spark plug incorrect
ECU trouble
Crankshaft sensor trouble

Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Bypass screw maladjusted
Air passage clogged
Air bleed pipe bleed holes clogged
Pilot passage clogged
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Fuel pump trouble
Throttle body assy holder loose
Air cleaner duct loose

Compression low:
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
No valve clearance
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)
Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface)
Camshaft cam worn

Run-on (dieseling):
Ignition switch trouble
Engine stop switch trouble
Fuel injector trouble
Loosen terminal of battery (–) cable or ECU ground lead
Carbon accumulating on valve seating surface
Engine overheating

Other:
ECU trouble
Throttle body assy not synchronizing
Engine oil viscosity too high
Drive train trouble
Brake dragging
Clutch slipping
Engine overheating
Air suction valve trouble
Air switching valve trouble

Poor Running or No Power at High Speed:
Firing incorrect:

Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Spark plug incorrect
Stick coil shorted or not in good contact trouble
Stick coil trouble
ECU trouble

Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
Air cleaner duct loose
Water or foreign matter in fuel
Throttle body assy holder loose
Fuel to injector insufficient
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Fuel line clogged
Fuel pump trouble

Compression low:
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
No valve clearance
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)
Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface)

Knocking:
Carbon built up in combustion chamber
Fuel poor quality or incorrect
Spark plug incorrect
ECU trouble


Miscellaneous:
Throttle valve won’t fully open
Brake dragging
Clutch slipping
Engine overheating
Engine oil level too high
Engine oil viscosity too high
Drive train trouble
Camshaft cam worn
Air suction valve trouble
Air switching valve trouble
Catalytic converter melt down due to muffler overheating (KLEEN)

Overheating:
Firing incorrect:

Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Spark plug incorrect
ECU trouble

Muffler overheating:
For KLEEN, do not run the engine even if with only one cylinder misfiring or poor running (Request the nearest service facility to correct it)
For KLEEN, do not push-start with a dead battery (Connect another full-charged battery with jumper cables, and start the engine using the electric starter)
For KLEEN, do not start the engine under misfire due to spark plug fouling or poor connection of the stick coil
For KLEEN, do not coast the motorcycle with the ignition switch off (Turn the ignition switch ON and run the engine)
ECU trouble

Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Throttle body assy holder loose
Air cleaner duct loose
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing

Compression high:
Carbon built up in combustion chamber

Engine load faulty:
Clutch slipping
Engine oil level too high
Engine oil viscosity too high
Drive train trouble
Brake dragging

Lubrication inadequate:
Engine oil level too low
Engine oil poor quality or incorrect

Gauge incorrect:
Water temperature gauge broken
Water temperature sensor broken

Coolant incorrect:
Coolant level too low
Coolant deteriorated
Wrong coolant mixed ratio

Cooling system component incorrect:
Radiator fin damaged
Radiator clogged
Thermostat trouble
Radiator cap trouble
Radiator fan relay trouble
Fan motor broken
Fan blade damaged
Water pump not turning
Water pump impeller damaged

Over Cooling:
Gauge incorrect:

Water temperature gauge broken
Water temperature sensor broken

Cooling system component incorrect:

Thermostat trouble

Clutch Operation Faulty:
Clutch slipping:

Friction plate worn or warped
Steel plate worn or warped
Clutch spring broken or weak
Clutch hub or housing unevenly worn
No clutch lever play
Clutch inner cable trouble
Clutch release mechanism trouble

Clutch not disengaging properly:
Clutch plate warped or too rough
Clutch spring compression uneven
Engine oil deteriorated
Engine oil viscosity too high
Engine oil level too high
Clutch housing frozen on drive shaft
Clutch hub nut loose
Clutch hub spline damaged
Clutch friction plate installed wrong
Clutch lever play excessive
Clutch release mechanism trouble

Gear Shifting Faulty:
Doesn’t go into gear; shift pedal doesn’t return:

Clutch not disengaging
Shift fork bent or seized
Gear stuck on the shaft
Shift return spring weak or broken
Shift return spring pin loose
Shift mechanism arm broken
Shift pawl broken
Pawl spring broken



Jumps out of gear:
Shift fork ear worn, bent
Gear groove worn
Gear dogs and/or dog holes worn
Shift drum groove worn
Shift fork guide pin worn
Drive shaft, output shaft, and/or gear splines worn

Overshifts:
Neutral positioning pin spring weak or broken
Pawl spring broken

Abnormal Engine Noise:
Knocking:

ECU trouble
Carbon built up in combustion chamber
Fuel poor quality or incorrect
Spark plug incorrect
Overheating

Piston slap:
Cylinder/piston clearance excessive
Cylinder, piston worn
Connecting rod bent
Piston pin, piston pin hole worn

Valve noise:
Valve clearance incorrect
Valve spring broken or weak
Camshaft bearing worn
Valve lifter worn

Other noise:
Connecting rod small end clearance excessive
Connecting rod big end clearance excessive
Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
Piston ring worn, broken, or stuck
Piston ring groove worn
Piston seizure, damage
Cylinder head gasket leaking
Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head connection
Crankshaft runout excessive
Engine mount loose
Crankshaft bearing worn
Primary gear worn or chipped
Camshaft chain tensioner trouble
Camshaft chain, sprocket, guide worn
Air suction valve damaged
Air switching valve damaged
Alternator rotor loose
Catalytic converter melt down due to muffler overheating (KLEEN)

Abnormal Drive Train Noise:
Clutch noise:

Clutch damper weak or damaged
Clutch housing/friction plate clearance excessive
Clutch housing gear worn

Transmission noise:

Bearings worn
Transmission gear worn or chipped
Metal chips jammed in gear teeth
Engine oil insufficient

Drive line noise:
Drive chain adjusted improperly
Drive chain worn
Rear and/or engine sprocket worn
Chain lubrication insufficient
Rear wheel misaligned

Abnormal Frame Noise:
Front fork noise:

Oil insufficient or too thin
Spring weak or broken

Rear shock absorber noise:

Shock absorber damaged

Disc brake noise:
Pad installed incorrectly
Pad surface glazed
Disc warped
Caliper trouble

Other noise:
Bracket, nut, bolt, etc. not properly mounted or tightened

Oil Pressure Warning Indicator Light Goes On:
Engine oil pump damaged
Engine oil screen clogged
Engine oil filter clogged
Engine oil level too low
Engine oil viscosity too low
Camshaft bearing worn
Crankshaft bearing worn
Oil pressure switch damaged
Wiring faulty
Relief valve stuck open
O-ring at the oil passage in the crankcase damaged

Exhaust Smokes Excessively:
White smoke:

Piston oil ring worn
Cylinder worn
Valve oil seal damaged
Valve guide worn
Engine oil level too high

Black smoke:
Air cleaner clogged

Brown smoke:
Air cleaner duct loose
Air cleaner poorly sealed or missing

Handling and/or Stability Unsatisfactory:
Handlebar hard to turn:

Cable routing incorrect
Hose routing incorrect
Wiring routing incorrect
Steering stem nut too tight
Steering stem bearing damaged
Steering stem bearing lubrication inadequate
Steering stem bent
Tire air pressure too low

Handlebar shakes or excessively vibrates:
Tire worn
Swingarm pivot bearing worn
Rim warped, or not balanced
Wheel bearing worn
Handlebar mounting bolt loose
Steering stem nut loose
Front, rear axle runout excessive
Engine mounting nut loose

Handlebar pulls to one side:

Frame bent
Wheel misalignment
Swingarm bent or twisted
Swingarm pivot shaft runout excessive
Steering maladjusted
Front fork bent
Right and left front fork oil level uneven

Shock absorption unsatisfactory:
(Too hard)
Front fork oil excessive
Front fork oil viscosity too high
Rear shock absorber adjustment too hard
Tire air pressure too high
Front fork bent
(Too soft)
Tire air pressure too low
Front fork oil insufficient and/or leaking
Front fork oil viscosity too low
Rear shock adjustment too soft
Front fork, rear shock absorber spring weak
Rear shock absorber oil leaking

Brake Doesn’t Hold:
Air in the brake line
Pad or disc worn
Brake fluid leakage
Disc warped
Contaminated pad
Brake fluid deteriorated
Primary or secondary cup damaged in master cylinder
Master cylinder scratched inside

Battery Trouble: Also see Motorcycle Battery & Battery Charging Tips- https://www.250r.net/forum/showthread.php?t=2562

Battery discharged:
Charge insufficient
Battery faulty (too low terminal voltage)
Battery cable making poor contact
Load excessive (e.g., bulb of excessive wattage)
Ignition switch trouble
Alternator trouble
Wiring faulty
Regulator/rectifier trouble

Battery overcharged:

Alternator trouble
Regulator/rectifier trouble
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post #2 of 2 (permalink) Old 04-08-2015, 10:15 AM
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Thanks for your sharing, I need this kind of information.*
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