Cush drive - Kawasaki Ninja 250R Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-14-2013, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
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Cush drive

I've been hearing about shimming the cush drive on the 250. Can anyone explain this?


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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-18-2013, 10:50 AM
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I have not heard or seen any discussions here referring to shimming the cush drive.

Are you familiar with the cush drive on your 250 and it's purpose?

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-18-2013, 10:59 AM
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I haven't heard of shimming it either.

Generally, if a cush drive gets sloppy it is time to replace the rubber cushion pieces.

A lot less work than trying to shim it.

I have come to terms with the possibility of dying while riding, life has a 100% death rate. I would rather live having fun and end up dead in a motorcycle crash than never do anything fun because it's dangerous and I might get killed. No one makes it out alive anyway. - From a friend on another forum, used with his permission.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-19-2013, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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I didn't see anything on this forum about it. I herd someone say something about it a while ago and didn't think anything of it. Then I read some things here about needle shimming, so I got on YouTube to try and learn a little more and came across a couple videos in shimming the cush drive. I could see why you would say to just replace it.


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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-19-2013, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mxslick View Post
I haven't heard of shimming it either.

Generally, if a cush drive gets sloppy it is time to replace the rubber cushion pieces.

A lot less work than trying to shim it.
What do you mean by sloppy? Would replacing it make the ride smoother?


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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-19-2013, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fcosuna5091 View Post
What do you mean by sloppy? Would replacing it make the ride smoother?


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Generally, the slop comes when the rubber pieces wear out or get compressed to the point that the bike "lurches" when accelerating or especially decelerating, because of the excess play between the sprocket carrier and the wheel.

A good test is to put the bike up on a swingarm stand so that you can rotate the rear wheel freely.

Put the bike in gear and try to turn the rear wheel.

A good cush drive will have little or almost no play in the rear wheel. (Some play is normal..how much really varies depending on the bike. My old FZ 750 had what I would call a bit too much play, even with new cush rubbers.)

A worn cush drive will allow you to turn the wheel back and forth more than an inch or two.

Best way to really tell is by riding at a moderate speed (20-30mph) on a level surface, and abruptly let off the throttle. Make sure the surface is clean and dry, no rocks or sand either, as the rear wheel will lurch a bit if the drive is ok or a lot if the drive is worn out.

I hope the descriptions I gave help as it is hard to convey it well by text.

And yes, replacing a worn cush drive will make the ride smoother, as long as the rider uses good clutch technique.

I have come to terms with the possibility of dying while riding, life has a 100% death rate. I would rather live having fun and end up dead in a motorcycle crash than never do anything fun because it's dangerous and I might get killed. No one makes it out alive anyway. - From a friend on another forum, used with his permission.

Last edited by Mxslick; 06-19-2013 at 05:31 PM.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-19-2013, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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Hmm, sounds like I may need to change mine.


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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 06:24 AM
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Check out "How to Shim the Cush Drive" at http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_to_shim_the_cush_drive

It's pretty easy to take the wheel off and see how much play is there by moving the sprocket by hand. Then you can easily pull out the sprocket carrier (by hand) and place shims next to the rubber dampers, and test it until it's tight. I cut small rectangular pieces from a heavy plastic milk bottle. I needed four pieces around each damper.

Of course, you could also spend a few bucks and buy new dampers.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chicagobob View Post
Check out "How to Shim the Cush Drive" at http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_to_shim_the_cush_drive

It's pretty easy to take the wheel off and see how much play is there by moving the sprocket by hand. Then you can easily pull out the sprocket carrier (by hand) and place shims next to the rubber dampers, and test it until it's tight. I cut small rectangular pieces from a heavy plastic milk bottle. I needed four pieces around each damper.

Of course, you could also spend a few bucks and buy new dampers.
Thanks for the link.

However, if the drive is worn out then shimming should be considered a temporary fix and the rubbers should be changed ASAP. I have seen cases where the rubbers completely disintegrate while riding and it is ugly. (Rare, but it has happened.)

One of the functions of the cush drive is to help spare stress on the transmission gears...taking away too much of the cushioning effect can be as bad as, if not worse than, too much slop.

If a rider has very good clutch technique though, the need for the cush drive is not as important.

In any event you should never shim it so tight that there is no cushioning effect...that can cause premature chain/sprocket wear and possible transmission damage.

I have come to terms with the possibility of dying while riding, life has a 100% death rate. I would rather live having fun and end up dead in a motorcycle crash than never do anything fun because it's dangerous and I might get killed. No one makes it out alive anyway. - From a friend on another forum, used with his permission.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-21-2013, 11:19 AM
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Think of the cush drive as a shock absorber. It minimizes the stresses that occur in the drive line due to backlash in the gear box, slack in the chain, and from shifting through (up or down) the gears.

Without the cush drive, there would be a lot of stresses on the transmission, chain, sprockets, and rear wheel and all of these components would live much shorter service lives.

Shimming is a bandaid for worn out isolators. Replace the isolators with new pieces and save yourself from having to do the job twice.

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