Stripped drain bolt. - Kawasaki Ninja 250R Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-02-2012, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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Stripped drain bolt.

I went and stripped out my threads.
I was using a torque wrench, this was my 3rd oil change. The problem was this time I had just rode so the Bike was warm. Previously I changed it cold so the metal wasn't as soft.


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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-02-2012, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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Anyways I was in a pinch so instead of rethreading the drain pan I used a larger drain bolt. Now I'm due for another oil change and worried if I take the bolt out it might not seal again. Anyone got suggestions?


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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-02-2012, 10:55 AM
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buy a replacement on ebay and then take it to a shop would be the easiest solution.

Just personally, I'd be too worried to mess it up worse by trying different things

If you really want to try and do it yourself, first of all make sure you're using a bran new socket head. If that still doesn't work, you can use the next size up socket and see if you can fit some kind of rubber in it to grip the bolt head.



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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-02-2012, 12:44 PM
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Don't blame it on the bike being warm.
I'd like to see data on metal hardness/softness when it's 80 and 180 (I doubt the drain bolt reaches and maintains 180 however).
Just about every manual I've read states to change the oil after engine has ran, I must've changed oil about fifteen times on different motorbikes the last four years.
Allow yourself more time than you need for any project - don't change the oil if you have to get going in 20-minutes.

I have to wonder how the drain bolt got stripped, if it has been giving you problems prior to this. Have you been turning the bolt on as much as you can by finger, then torquing? The drain plug torque is 14.5 pounds, btw (it's not really a whole lot and I can imagine many people over-torquing to make themselves feel better).
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-02-2012, 01:03 PM
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just had a thought, you could also try some channel lock pliers with some kind of rubber grip. That might get it off. But ultimately, you need to replace it once you get it off, obviously you know that lol



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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-02-2012, 01:25 PM
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Ha-hah, I forgot that this is a photo-reference kind of forum.
Why do I change motor oil when the bike/vehicle is warm? Because at the end of a trip, it concludes my 5,000 mile interval. I let the motor cool off a little while I change out of my riding gear and take a short rest. Then the motorbike is ready for the next day/ride.

The only thing I changed at 3,000 miles was my '81 KZ550, that thing liked to burn oil. As a side note, don't believe anyone if they tell you that a motor shouldn't burn oil. On a BMW web site, it's stated that it's not unusual for a motor to burn up to 1 quart every 1,000 miles. That doesn't mean that BMW motors burn that much oil, just a heads up that if a motor does, don't be alarmed (and yes, I've taken BMW on 1,000-mile trips).

Also, I'm not a follower of the "3-month" rule of thumb. If I put on only 2,000 miles in 3 months, I ain't changing the oil. The "just in case" and "cheap insurance" excuses make people feel good, so good for them. For some reason, their vehicles are more special than other peoples'





This is a bad example only because it's in metric, but in any case the manufacturer never suggests 3,000-miles or 3-months:


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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-09-2012, 04:20 AM
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You can either use a heli-coil to replace the threads or you can re-tap the threads to a larger size bolt. Either way, you should dip the tap in axle grease so it will trap metal filings as you run the tap through the case. Its not a real big deal, this is a common occurrence. I doubt a shop will charge more than $100 to do the job. And as TwistedTom said above, always turn the bolt in by hand first as far as it will go to make sure you're not cross threading the bolt, then apply torque. It doesn't take much to hold it in place, it just snugs up there.
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