Time for a carb cleaning - Kawasaki Ninja 250R Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-30-2012, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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Time for a carb cleaning

I bought a bike today that has been sitting for a year. It didn't have enough gas in it to test drive it. It kept stalling out when I tried to get drive it. I put a gallon of (stupid me) 87 octane in it followed by some carb cleaner and tried to ride it. It did better this time and let me drive it. It didn't seem to run quite right but it did seem to run better the more I rhode it. I did purchase the bike which may have been studpid in hind site because it really didn't run right. I tried to start it at home and it doesn't seem to be running quite right on the one cylinder. It does hit on that one cyinder but if you look at the plug it is slightly white which means that it is probably to lean correct?

So the question is whether the bike will be okay after a carb cleaning? I realize that you aren't mind readers but is this the most likely senario or is there something else that is very likely.

I did slide the tank out of the way and check the air filters which were good. It would seem to me while I was in there that I could get the carburetor out if I wanted to. I am hesitant to do this however, because I once rebuilt a car carburetor and it took me a week of swearing to get it right.

I thought about using sea foam to try and clear it out but I am unsure of how much I can put in the carb without hurting anything. Would I add it to the gas or would I shoot it into the carb by way of a vacuum hose?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-01-2012, 09:11 AM
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Most of your starting and running issues after the bike has been sitting for long periods are going to be caused by bad gas and dirty gunked up carbs. You will manually need to remove the carbs at this point to clean them well. Cleaner/stabilizers such as Seafoam and Star Tron (recommended) will help clean the carbs and stabilize gas. Usage is easy with instructions on each bottle. You can use either one to try and see if they help prior to breaking down the carbs. You should also look at changing the plugs, engine oil, oil and air filters.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-01-2012, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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also

I need to rip the carbs off the bike tonight to make sure that I get there by six. I don't have a garage so I would need to leave the bike in my driveway under a tarp. My driveway often has some dust floating around it because it is dirt not gravel. Do you think that the bike would be okay if I covered it with a tarp and stuffed paper towels in the intake manifold?
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-01-2012, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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I know I would be better off doing the carbs myself but fifty bucks for a cleaning doesn't sound too bad right now.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-01-2012, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79inpa View Post
.... Do you think that the bike would be okay if I covered it with a tarp and stuffed paper towels in the intake manifold?
You should be fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 79inpa View Post
I know I would be better off doing the carbs myself but fifty bucks for a cleaning doesn't sound too bad right now.
If it works, it a good deal.

Good luck.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-01-2012, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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bolt

*******
I also noticed that the bike is missing one of the bolts that go hold the cover for the tranny on. This is the cover where the shifter goes onto the bike. I seriously hope that there isn't a problem with the bikes transmission. Is there an innocent reason why a bike with low miles would need this cover removed.

****
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-01-2012, 04:00 PM
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Quote:
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*******
Is there an innocent reason why a bike with low miles would need this cover removed.

****
changing the chain, sprocket, connecting the neutral safety switch
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-01-2012, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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Could I run it for a bit with one of the bolts missing?

Could I run it for a bit with one of bolts missing? I only got to test drive it for a bit. It seemed to shift through the gears fine correctly. I hope it doesn't have any hidden transmission issues that I missed. Then again I don't think that it could have anything major wrong with it because I changed the oil today and I didn't see any metal chips in it and it doesn't seem to be burning oil. The oil was down to the bottom of the glass "periscope". Could a bike with with 1500 miles on it realistically burn through half or three quarters of a quart of oil? Would that be a realistic amount of oil to burn in that many miles or would that suggest that something is quite wrong?
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-29-2015, 03:08 PM
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