Ninja 250 won't start fully - Kawasaki Ninja 250R Forum
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-24-2015, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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Ninja 250 won't start fully

It's been a little cold out and my bike has been acting iffy. It starts sometimes but most of the time it just starts and immediately dies. I was just wondering what I need to do to get my bike up and running again. Here's a video of what happens when I start it: https://vid.me/PAoO


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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-25-2015, 06:11 AM
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Okay need some background information,

How long has the bike sat? Mileage? Any modifications? Did you prepare it for storage? What's your experience with motorcycles? Etc......

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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-25-2015, 06:43 AM Thread Starter
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Not long it was working fine about a week ago, no mods other than the levers, 10k miles, I'm a noob, and I didn't prepare for storage due to the fact I planned on using it.


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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-25-2015, 06:50 AM
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Okay a week is not a storage issue, sounds like you just have a typical cold bike trying to start, and improper use of the choke.

Try this, and let me know if it helps, also add some Seafoam to the gas, just for the maintenance sake.


http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_is..._at_startup%3F

Also some good reading material as well,

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Intake

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/New_Riders

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Troubleshooting

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Main_Page

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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-25-2015, 06:52 AM
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Also pick up a BATTERY TENDER JR to kelp the battery fully charged and happy.

A.T.G.A.T.T so I may ride another day. www.rockthegear.org

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I'm not your mom and I'm not paying for your parts, so do whatever you want with your own bike.
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-25-2015, 08:29 AM Thread Starter
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I've used seafoam and it still doesn't work I've tried the choke tut too.


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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-25-2015, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
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I used a battery tender and the battery doesn't seem to be the issue


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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-25-2015, 04:49 PM
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What's the history on the bike? What year is it? It's possible it still be a carb issue, but the fact that it was running fine a week ago tells me otherwise. Too much seafoam can actually be damaging to the carbs. Valves should also be adjusted every 6k miles, so if you don't know the history on the maintenance you'll want to do that asap followed immediately by syncing the carbs.



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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-25-2015, 04:52 PM
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Carb sync is not his problem, if he is going to sync them, bench sync is the only proper way to ever sync them.

From the video it's a NewGen model.

Sounds like the pilot circuit is clogged. I'm also guessing that there's no fuel filter either.

Personally I'm thinking improper use of the choke still, after watching the video several times, I noticed that the choke was already on during the first attempt, which seemed a little short time of a try, then he switches the choke off, and tries again, and seems too short again of time to crank it over.

Quote:
To use the choke: On the 250, you pull the lever toward the rider to apply choke, then push it away to disengage. Turn ignition key to on position; leave choke off. Press starter button with one finger (no throttle) while gradually turning up the choke. After about three seconds, the choke and carb priming should be adequate to start the engine. Use no more choke than necessary to keep the bike idling. Idle speed at startup will most likely need to be slightly higher than when it's warmed up.
The gradual application method is better than just turning on the choke and then trying to start it, because the Ninja rarely needs full choke to get going. You don't want to give it too much choke, because you risk flooding the engine.
As soon as the engine runs without dying (from several seconds to no more than 60), ride off with the choke still on. Do not idle the engine to warm it up. Keep the revs low, and gradually lower and then turn off the choke when the bike can run fine without it. This may be a few blocks or a few miles. Increase revs as the bike warms up, and don't run it hard until it's fully warm. Make sure to check a couple minutes into the ride to make sure you're not riding around with the choke left on.
On the other hand
Some people have trouble with the gradual-on method. Here's a way you can try if you're not having much luck: Set the choke lever at about halfway, then hit the starter. Normally it will fire right up and the rpm will quickly jump up. Turn the choke up or down to keep the bike running, staying under 3000 rpm until you start moving. Ride off easily, closing the choke completely within a few blocks.
Remember that every bike is different, and you need to find the method that works best for you.
Also once you touch the throttle, the choke is useless due to the design, it's an enrichment circuit, once the throttle butterflies are moved the circuit is rendered dead.

One must remember that it's NOT FUEL INJECTION, it's old school carburetors.

Or is there something he's not tells us? We need all the details to offer you the best advice, leaving out details will not help anyone.
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File Type: jpg 5669846325683448674.jpg (53.2 KB, 4 views)

A.T.G.A.T.T so I may ride another day. www.rockthegear.org

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I'm not your mom and I'm not paying for your parts, so do whatever you want with your own bike.

Last edited by Ghostt; 02-25-2015 at 05:26 PM.
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-26-2015, 09:10 AM
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Didn't say carb sync was the issue, but if he does a valve adjustment, he'll need to sync the carbs immediately after.



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