[2008+] DIY Oil change (With pics.) - Kawasaki Ninja 250R Forum
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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-24-2008, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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DIY Oil change (With pics.)

Hello,
Welcome to the 250R.net 2008 Ninja 250R DIY oil change thread.

We are going to do a step by step oil change to show you guys that are a little sceptical about doing it yourself that it really is a simple project.

But first to cover the intervals: You are fine to just go ahead and follow the manufacturers recomended intervals,However most people will tell you that is not enough.I am one of those people.

My change intervals are as follows: 1st 50mi.,2nd 200mi.,3rd 600mi.,4th 1200mi.,This is where I changed to full synthetic 5th 2000mi.,6th 4000mi.,and will be every 2000mi. from here on out.This is due to the high RPM my bike spends its life at.(I average 75mph)

The tools needed:Bike stands if you have them,Oil filter (your preference),2 qts. oil (again your preference) (you will use 1.7 qts.),Rags, oil catch pan,Torque wrench, 17mm socket and rachet,small regular screwdriver (these other tools dont apply other than at 4000mi. or so intervals)8mm socket and rachet.

Pic. of the tools needed: - the torque wrench (I don't use one)


Ok now for the fun:
1st run your engine to normal operating temperature. 2nd put your bike on your stands. 3rd put your catch pan under the bike. 4th get your 17mm and rachet and remove the oil drain plug(be careful the oil is hot)

Pic of the filter housing, and the screen housing, and drain plug:


Here is a pic of the oil draining so that you know what plug it is.


5th loosen the filter housing and let it drain,then remove it (be careful the oil will be hot).

Pic of the filter housing draining:


6th disassemble the filter and housing over a bench so you dont loose any of the parts,clean all the parts.Use the small screwdriver to carefully remove both of the O-rings and inspect them(the purolator filter I use comes with new O-rings PN# ML16812).

Pic of the filter housing,and O-ring placement:


Wipe the O-rings clean (even new ones) and lube them with a thin layer of oil (some people use white grease),at this time lube the gaskets on the filter as well.

Pic. of the order of parts,they go together from right to left:


7th put the filter assembly together.

First put the bolt through the plate and then the spring goes on the bolt:


Now the washer goes on:


The filter,with this type it does not matter which side is first:


And the cap:


8th Put the filter assembly back in the housing on the bike and tighten it down to the torque spec 14.5ft. lbs. (or in my case good and snug)

CONTINUED NEXT POST


I am not a trained professional so.
CONTINUE AT YOUR OWN RISK !
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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-24-2008, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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9th Put the drain plug back in and torque it to 14.5ft. lbs. as well.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
THESE NEXT INSTRUCTIONS AND PICS ARE FOR CLEANING THE SCREEN ONLY AT 4000MI. OR SO INTERVALS.The purpose of cleaning the screen is to get the bigger stuff out of the engine,like gasket material,or silicone from engine assembly.the only reason I can figure this screen is here is to prevent big stuff from plugging the drain plug.If the garbage was big enough it would just stay at the bottom of the case.

Step 1 use the 8mm socket and rachet and remove the bolts holding the housing to the engine (this is the same housing that the drain plug screws into).
Step 2 When the bolts are out,very gently remove the housing (dont pry it. just a gentle tap on the side).

Step 3 Gently remove the gasket with the screwdriver,and then gently remove the screen with the screwdriver.

Step 4 clean the parts and reassemble.(when reasembling the housing you either have to buy a new gasket or use a high temp rtv silicone that is good with heat,or it will leak)
(I will look up the torque spec for these bolts)

Pics of the order of the screen and housing:


END OF THE SCREEN CLEANING INSTRUCTIONS
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



10th is to put oil back in your bike. I fill it to the top line of your sight glass,and then start the bike and let it warm up again,then shut it off and sit for a couple minutes,then top it off.(I leave mine an 1/8th inch or so below the full line)

Here is where to fill it:


And here is the site glass:


11th step is to clean everything up. I put the oil filter in our recycling bin at work for oil filters. What you could do I guess is put it in a ziplock bag and throw it away.And for the oil put it in the used oil bottles you have left over and take it to your local recycling place (I think most parts stores do it). I have the luxury of an oil burning furnace.

And the last and final step. CHECK EVERYTHING FOR LEAKS A COUPLE TIMES IN THE NEXT HUNDRED MILES.

I hope this helps anyone that is unsure, do it once and it is a breeze from then on.

Jason



I am not a trained professional so.
CONTINUE AT YOUR OWN RISK !

Last edited by jhcrash; 08-25-2008 at 12:19 AM. Reason: fine tuning
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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-24-2008, 09:34 PM
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Very nice step by step! Thank you
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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-24-2008, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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You are very welcome.
It helps to see it, the first change I did I did not see the washer until I was cleaning out my drain pan. But I know exactly where it went.I just ran it till the next oil change though.

Mods sticky this one as well.

I am not a trained professional so.
CONTINUE AT YOUR OWN RISK !
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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-24-2008, 11:11 PM
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cool. i should be doing this to go full synthetic in a bout a week or two.

Go Go Kawasaki Go!
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-25-2008, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhcrash View Post
Mods sticky this one as well.
Ask and shall receive! I got this page all stickyed up

A word to the wise ain't necessary - it's the stupid ones that need the advice.
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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-29-2008, 03:17 PM
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great step-by-step! Thanks!
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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-30-2008, 06:26 PM
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The bolts for the oil screen are listed as 87 lb-in of torque and the drain bolt is listed as 14.5 lb-ft of torque. To simplify it, 87 lb-in of torque is about 7.25 lb-ft of torque. I'm not sure why the heck they listed them in 2 different methods, confusing. I used this site, http://www.convertunits.com/from/lb-ft/to/pound+inches, to convert the value.
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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-21-2008, 05:53 AM
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I just got my first bike this past weekend, so I am new to this. I found this information helpful. So thanks.

A question came to mind during your 10th step. When you fill your bike back with new oil, is your bike level/perpendicular to the ground or was it on the side stand leaning to the left?

Because I once thought my oil was low. My bike was on leaning on the side stand leaning to the left and when looking through the sight glass, there was no oil. But when you tilt it upright to where its level/perpendicular you can see the oil come into view.

The manual does not specify what the position of the bike has to be when viewing the oil sight glass. Please explain. Thanks.
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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-21-2008, 09:15 AM
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Generally speaking, you should always level your bike when checking the oil through the glass window. When changing the oil however, I usually go by my own measurement.
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