[All models] How to: Carb Sync - Kawasaki Ninja 250R Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-02-2012, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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How to: Carb Sync

If you notice a lack of acceleration or some bogging when trying to accelerate, then your carbs are probably out of sync. Carb syncing is also necessary after a valve adjustment(which should be done every 6,000 miles as necessary).

It's a fairly easy thing to do also.

The first thing you need to do is make your own carb sync tool. You can do this for about $5-$10 depending on what you use.

Materials you'll need:
1. 2 glass snapple bottles
2. About 10 feet of clear hose. Can be found at your local hardware store. You'll need hose with 3/8 outer diameter and a 1/4 inside diameter
3. Rubber stoppers, found in the "hard to find" section at Lowe's
4. About 8oz of motor oil or you can use water with food coloring

The first step in making the sync tool should be to drill through the rubber stoppers. You need to drill two holes side by side with a 3/8 drill bit.

Next, cut about 2 feet of the hose off and pull it through one hole on each rubber stopper. There should be about 6 inches of hose coming through each stopper

Then, take the rest of the hose and cut it in half. Put one end of each hose through the stopper just enough to get through.

It should look something like this at this point:



Now take each snapple bottle and fill it with about 2in or 4oz of oil. Place a stopper into each bottle. You should have this now, except the oil levels should be even



Now, you need to get to your carbs. Usually this involves at least removing the gas tank, and whatever fairings are necessary to do so.

Now that you've gotten to the carbs, remove each vacuum nozzle tube



Hook up each clear hose to the vacuum nozzle.

Now start your bike.

If your carbs are out of sync, then you will have oil traveling from one to the other through the short hose. If your carbs are synced then no oil should be traveling moving through the short tube at all

To sync them, you'll need either a short, stubby screwdriver or a really long screwdriver. Slightly turn the yellow adjustment screw (be sure not to push down, which accelerates the bike and uses all the gas in the carbs). A slight turn makes a big difference.

Once all the oil has stopped moving within the short tube, you're done!

It's a lot less complicated than it may sound by the title

as you can see, mine were pretty out of sync





All you are technically doing is equaling/syncing the vacuum suction in each carburetor so that each one gets an equal amount of gas. As you may have guessed, the long hoses connected to the nozzles create suction within the bottles. If one is sucking more than the other, then it sucks oil from the other through the small hose. Pretty cool, right?



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Last edited by tadster00; 09-21-2012 at 07:37 PM.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-14-2013, 06:05 AM
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Great thread. I'll have to try this
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-14-2013, 09:21 AM
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Re: How to: Carb Sync

I've got everything I need for this but the rubber stoppers the guys at Lowes didn't know what I was talking about when I asked where they were. Gonna be doing it once I find them

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-14-2013, 10:01 AM
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Also 2 of these gauges will give you an exact numerical reading.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-10-2013, 04:25 PM
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Re: How to: Carb Sync

Synced my carbs today with this method and though it was easy I don't feel it was 100% accurate. My carbs were pretty off and I got them synced best I could didn't get a chance to see if there's a difference yet though

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-10-2013, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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it probably won't be as accurate as the gauges DaBlue posted, but it gets them very close.



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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-10-2013, 06:29 PM
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Re: How to: Carb Sync

Yea I had them so there was very little movement between the bottles I think I could have gotten it spot on but the carbs ran out of gas so I left it. I'd like a set of those gauges though

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-23-2013, 10:58 PM
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I took all the airbox and that off as I found it easier personally, the cylinder 4 screw was a pain to balance on the end of the screwdriver to get it back in even with the tank etc off.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-22-2014, 03:12 PM
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Needle moves too much on the gauges

I had the same stuttering problems especially bothersome at over 50 MPH. So, I promptly went out and bought 2 vacuum gauges from Harbor Freight and hooked them up according to the instructions here. The problem was one of them was moving back and forth whereas the other one was more stable. I tried to adjust the yellow screw but they never got closer to the same vacuum. (
I put it back together and tried it out at about 50 MPH. There was still a very noticeable stuttering, like the engine is missing sometimes.
I was wondering about the yellow screw. There's a screw underneath it. Is there like a happy medium like OEM setting or as we say, the default setting?
If I can't improve it, I'll have to do the "ANALOG" way with the tubes and bottles. Any body can shed any light on the specifics of using the gauges? DaBlue1?
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-08-2015, 09:58 AM
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thank you so much its really helped
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