Brake upgrades - Kawasaki Ninja 250R Forum
 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-30-2015, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
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Brake upgrades

So I am considering modifying the brakes on my 08 a bit, but I don't know much about it. I'm planning on switching to Galfer braided lines, but other than that I'm not quite sure what else to modify. Should I switch to a certain brand of brake pads or replace anything else in the braking system? Thanks!
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 01:36 AM
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I personally have and always used EBC brand pads, make sure you get the sintered pads, HH.

Example:
EBC Brakes FA197HH Sintered Copper Alloy Disc Brake Pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006B28206..._q9ZUvbZYBE39T

You might want to also upgrade the rotor if your have the cash, EBC full floating style, or a wave style.

Example:
EBC Brakes MD4162XC Brake Rotor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00666JOUO..._3-ZUvbN5JPN8W

And flush the old brake fluid, and replace with 5.1 DOT fluid, I personally use this brand,

Motul DOT 5.1 Brake Fluid - 1/2 L. 8070HC / 100951 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UGKDRY..._ju0UvbT06C4HQ


Also remember to service the calipers as well, here's my write-up

Quote:
For those of you whom are scratching their heads, here you go,*


Front Caliper Service (also rear as well)

Many folks have posted here with a Varity of front brake problems.

*Many of which are attributable to the lack of proper maintenance.

*Here’s how you can always have a brake like when your bike was new.

A short list of the problems and the causes.

Soft lever or lever goes to the bar.

The usual cause is the pistons are pushed too far back into the caliper by a flexing a warped, coned, disc.

*Using up too much piston travel before the disc is pinched.

Juddering in sync with wheel rotation.

The disc is worn, and its thickness varies. *This causes the caliper to “sink” into the thin part and when the thick part comes around, it gets wedged into a smaller space causing a tightening of the brake. Then the tight spot passes through and it like the brake is released. Then repeat, repeat.

Cupped, coned, or warped disc.

Unfortunately this is a common problem with EX’s the cause is the disc is stretched in the center due to being rigidly bolted to the wheel. *The huge force of braking is transmitted to the wheel through the webbed center of the disc which gets stretched and becomes larger than the space it occupies in the center of the disc. This causes the center to push to the side trying to find room for itself.

*Resulting is a cone shaped disc.

Soft lever 2

The caliper has pistons only on one side, so as the pads wear the caliper must shift sideways apply even pressure on both sides of the disc.

*To allow this the caliper floats on two pins. *If these pins get dry (no grease) dirty or bent. The caliper won’t center itself and bends the disc to wherever it is.

This take up lever travel and when released pushes the pistons further back than necessary.

*If not fixed will eventually destroy the disc (warp it).


Ok how to prevent all of the above.

When new pad time comes around, resist the temptation to just pop in new one and go.

*Every time you must do these things.

Remove caliper disassemble and clean it.

Clean and re grease the sliding pins.

Polish the caliper pistons to remove dirt. If you just push the pistons back into the caliper leaks will result. Or binding.

Tools required:
12 mm socket
8mm open end wrench
3” or bigger C clamp
a supply of new bake fluid.
wire brush and or steel wool.

Remove the caliper from the fork leg but leave the brake line on.

Remove the old pads and the mounting frame (the sliding pins)

Remove the cover from the Master Cylinder on the Handel bar.

Attach the C clamp to one of the pistons but don’t squeeze it. *Pump the lever on the bar slowly to push out the other piston almost all the way. *Put the C clamp on that piston and push out the other one.

Remove both pistons by hand.

Remove all the rubber part from the caliper, the seals are in the grooves in the caliper and dull pointed thingy will get them out easy.

Disconnect the caliper from the brake line.

Soak all the rubber parts in new clean brake fluid * ONLY!!!!! * Rub them with you fingers till as clean as new.

The caliper can be cleaned with a wire brush or even a Moto tool for the internal grooves, NOW’s the time to paint it if you wish.

Polish the pistons till they are smooth and shinny. They are chrome plated. If any of the plating is chipped or damaged below the dust cap groove. *Replace it.

The master cylinder is the subject of another write up and we’ll assume it in good working order here.

If you suspect your disc is bad, your bets bet is to replace it with an after market one fro EBC or Galpher.

*Don’t remove the disc unless you intend to replace it. *It will assume a new shape if it is * stressed and will not be flat again. You can try to check its condition by placing a straight edge across the face of the pad swept area looking for any distortion.

Re assembly

Take the nice clean rubber seals and install them into the caliper then the Dust covers.
Wet all the rubber with new clean brake fluid and partially fill the caliper with new fluid.

Push the pistons though the dust seals and into the caliper body until the dust covers snap into the grooves.

Fill the MC with new fluid and pump the lever while holding the Line above the MC till clean fluid flows.

Connect the line to the caliper while holding it above the MC.

Pump the lever with the bleeder valve open till fluid flow from the bleeder.

*Hold the caliper so that the bleeder is the highest point.

Close the bleeder and pump more fluid into the caliper but don’t push the pistons all the way out.

Then squeeze the pistons all the way back in and install the new pads.

Re grease the slider pins and assemble the dust seals and re mount the caliper on the forks but leave the bolts loose.

Now clamp the caliper to the disc with the brake lever.

Look at the space between the fork lugs and the caliper, clamp and release a few times as you tighten the bolts by hand. It one lug touches much before the other the odds are you mounting bracket is bent. You can straighten it.

*After you get it the best you can. Some shim washers made from alum can stock can be fitted to the loose side.*

** *What we are doing here is trying to minimize the bedd in time and gets the best pad life.


Ok with everything tight you should be through, Notice we don’t need to bleed the brakes, but if you screwed up in any of the above steps, you might do that here.

Be careful to Bedd in the new pads gently.

*Too much pressure too soon will burn the pad material as only a small area will be gripping at first. You also won’t have full braking power till the pads are fully familiar with the disc
Quote:

All this BS about SS lines is usually caused by poor caliper/disc condition. the brake system is notorious for binding slider pins that warp the disc. this warp or coning of the disc is what causes the long travel of the lever as the disc must be bent straight before it can be clamped properly for hard braking.
This longer travel is caused by the disc retiring to it coned condition which pushes the pucks back too far into the caliper.
You must get a flat disc and replace the pads after to clean and re lube the slider pins. Then bed in the new pads to get a good brake. The SS line alone will do little or nothing.
One must remember that under hard braking the front does about 95% of the stopping if not all.

Below is a picture of mine, on my 250 i run a wave style rotor, and Venhill brake lines, you should check them out, https://www.250r.net/forum/showthread.php?t=9425
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 6112273993605272162.jpg (114.9 KB, 8 views)

A.T.G.A.T.T so I may ride another day. www.rockthegear.org

ZX-2R Photo gallery


I'm not your mom and I'm not paying for your parts, so do whatever you want with your own bike.

Last edited by Ghostt; 07-31-2015 at 06:08 AM.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-01-2015, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
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Dude thank you so much for all the info!!!! I plan on looking into all of this. I really appreciate your feedback.
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-01-2015, 02:27 PM
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No problem, just be sure the service the calipers. It's one of the most overlooked items when it comes to the bike. A lot of issues are caused due to poor maintenance.

A.T.G.A.T.T so I may ride another day. www.rockthegear.org

ZX-2R Photo gallery


I'm not your mom and I'm not paying for your parts, so do whatever you want with your own bike.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-06-2015, 12:35 AM Thread Starter
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Ended up buying the Galfers and got them in the mail today =] Hopefully get them on the bike within the next week or so. Planning on replacing the fluid and servicing the calipers along with replacing the pads.

My friend who owned a 250 before I did actually has left over brake pads that are still in the package because he never ended up using them. I'm not sure what brand they are, but honestly I'm broke AF right now and I'll probably just end up using the ones he wants to give me.

Only reason I had money for these was because my mom gave me money and said "Fix your brakes". She's scared I'm going to get hurt riding because I mentioned something about how the bike I ride now doesn't brake like the one I rode before. Now she's freaked out. Haha. Anyways. New pads next time for sure. =] Thanks for all your help!
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